There are many ways to make a drab old grey slab of concrete more attractive, even beautiful to the eye. Staining it with an appropriate concrete stain is one of the fastest and easiest. Properly applied to a properly prepared concrete slab, concrete stain will last for five years, in some cases, with proper maintenance, it will remain beautiful for an even longer period.
There are three types of concrete stains to select from, acid-based stains, solvent-based stains, and water-based stains. Personally, I recommend the acid-based stains to all my customers for its durability and quality finish.
Acid-based concrete stains are the stain of choice because the stain chemically bonds with the concrete to a shallow depth and the finish is not affected by the degree of smoothness of the concrete slab. Nevertheless, for the best appearance we want to start with the smoothest surface possible. Acid-based stains last the longest because the finish is actually part of the concrete.
Solvent-based concrete stains are stains that soak into the spores of the concrete and work best on a slab that is broom-finished rather than trowel-finished. There are pores that are more open in a broom-finished or rough surface slab for the stain to soak into then a smooth, trowel-finished slab. A solvent-based stain is better then a water-based stains but not as permanent as an acid-based stains because the solvent-based stain doesn’t chemically bond with the concrete.
Water-based concrete stains produces some deep, vibrant colors but have the shortest lifespan of all three concrete stains. Water-based concrete stains are also best for the environment because all they give off as they dry is water. If you opt to go with a water-based concrete stain be careful to make sure that the product that you buy is an actual concrete stain because there are products on the market calling themselves water-based concrete stains that are nothing more than a water-based paint.
All stains come with detailed instructions for their proper application, which varies slightly depending on whether you choose an acid-based, solvent-based, or water-based stain. Always follow those directions to the letter for best results.
Like with any DIY project, the success or failure of your project lies in the preparation. For this article, I’m going to assume that we are staining a garage floor that has never been finished, is stained with oil, grease, and other grime, and has cracks.
The first thing that we need to do, even before we fill in the cracks, is give our floor a thorough chemical cleaning. A word of caution is in order here; if you plan to apply an acid-based stain, do not use muriatic acid to clean the floor because the muriatic acid will make staining with an acid-based stain impossible. A good alternative to using Muriatic acid is to use Orange Crystal Concentrate. Orange Crystal Concentrate is simple to use, simply mix 1 pound of concentrate in 5 to 10 gallons of water if you are using the bucket and brush method or 1 pound of concentrate to 40 gallons of water if you are using it with a high-pressure washer. I recommend the latter because it’s not only more effective at removing ground in grime; it’s a lot easier on the old back.
If you are going to use a solvent-based or water-based stain and your floor is funky you can use Muriatic acid to clean it. Preparing a floor with Muriatic acid is a multi-step process. A word of caution here, Muriatic acid is really a diluted solution of Hydrochloric acid, one of the most dangerous chemicals that you can purchase for home use. When using this chemical, make sure to wear rubber boots, rubber gloves, and eye protection. Also, make sure to keep the area well ventilated and free of children and pets.
Cleaning a concrete floor with Muriatic acid is a multi-step process.
Preparing the cleaning solution
Mix one part Muriatic acid with ten parts water. Two quarts of acid will make 5 ½ gallons of working solution, enough to thoroughly clean a two or three-car garage. Mix this solution in a plastic bucket. Do not mix it in a metal ceramic, or paper bucket. Muriatic acid, even in a highly diluted form is highly corrosive and will attack metal. Ceramics, and paper. Do not pour any leftover solution down the drain, it will destroy the pipes and contaminate the environment. Contact your local building department to locate a proper disposal location.
Cleaning the floor
After mixing the solution brush it on vigorously and let set for at least 15 to 30 minutes. Then rinse thoroughly using a copious amount of water. A garden hose will work but I recommend using a high-pressure washer.
Once you have thoroughly rinsed the floor free of acid, let it dry for several hours. Once the floor has dried thoroughly, apply a 10 percent Sodium Hydroxide solution to neutralize any remaining Muriatic acid. Rinse again and let dry for 24 hours.
Filling in the cracks
Use hydraulic cement to fill the cracks and other damaged areas. Regular cement shrinks as it dries so you may have to use repeated applications to fill in the cracks if you use Portland cement. Hydraulic cement on the other hand expands to fill the voids as it dries. It not only expands to fill the voids completely, it forms a perfect water seal to make your floor leak free. Hydraulic cement is relatively easy to use and inexpensive. A 10-pound bucket of Dry Lok Fast Plug hydraulic cement is available at home centers for less then $15. Applying it is easy, simply trowel it into the cracks and let dry. After it dries thoroughly, you may have to grind the area to make it flat with the other areas. Now you are ready to apply the finish.
Applying the stain
Applying the stain is a matter of rolling it on. Check the instructions that come with the stain you purchase for and special applications steps needed.
