A blackhead is essentially a pore that has become clogged with dirt from the environment, dead skin cells and oil from the skin. The optimal method of ridding the pores of the dirt and oil is to keep the skin (most commonly of the face) clean. A recent episode of Oprah featured Dr. Mehmet C. Oz, M.D., co-author of You: The Owner’s Manual (with Dr. Mchael F. Roizen, M.D.; Harper Collins, 2005) and a regular guest on her show. He was there promoting his newest collaboration with Dr. Roizen, YOU: Being Beautiful (Free Press, a division of Simon and Schuster, 2008) and recommended several key points in caring for the skin of the face and keeping it clean.
In YOU: Being Beautiful, the authors suggest that your face be washed at least twice daily with a wash cloth and a light soap-one that is free of heavy fragrances and other excessive ingredients. Page 41 of the book proposes a simple bar soap with olive oil as a base ingredient and a light addition of an essential oil (the authors suggest lavender or peppermint). I have read in several magazines over the past few years that a washcloth should be used to gently scrub away dirt and dead skin and the face dried by rubbing enough to cause a slight friction-not patted dry-in order to slough off pore clogging debris
Dr. Oz also recommended (on Oprah) that the face be cleansed after sweating; even if soap is forgone and only water is used, you will remove at least some residual toxins that tend to block the pores. It is also emphasized (Pg.57) that exfoliation be employed regularly to rid the face of the majority of dead skin cells. Depending on skin type and sensitivity, this can be done as often as once daily to as little as once weekly. A gentle, natural exfoliant is recommended (such as an apricot facial scrub), so as not to irritate the skin. The idea is to remove dead skin without harming the layer beneath.
Other factors to keep in mind when considering the maintenance of the skin is a diet low in unhealthy trans and saturated fats, which will increase the amount of oils excreted by the skin; and avoiding application of substances that tend to clog up those pores, oil based moisturizers and any makeup are prime culprits in this scenario. Makeup should be used sparingly (if at all) and moisturizers should be light and natural. Dr.’s Oz and Roizen suggest the following moisturizers (Pg 57): Squalene, avocado oil, walnut butter or cocoa butter. You might also try a proven hypoallergenic moisturizer. Finally, the good doctors recommend that the moisturizer contain the following vitamins for optimal skin health (Pp 48-49): Vitamin A (retinoids), Vitamin B3 (niacin or nicotinamide), Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid, panthenol), Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Alpha-hydroxy acids, Ubiquinione or coenzyme Q10, Ferulic Acid.
There are several things I have learned through my own experience in seeking out the blackhead solution over the years. Firstly, it is very important to remember not to squeeze the dirt and oil from the pore. It damages the skin around it and causes the pore to enlarge, which in turn leads to a larger blackhead. Neither is attractive. It also spreads bacteria.
Astringents have been effective, but they draw out natural moisture and can cause over drying as well as irritation in sensitive skin.
Clay masks tend to reduce the appearance of the enlarged pores and also attract the dirt and oil to the surface.
Pore strips are a safe way of unclogging without squeezing.
Exfoliate, exfoliate, exfoliate! I had a silk sponge from Shiseido called “The Power of Silk” that has been discontinued. It was the best exfoliating tool I have ever used and cleared my face of most of the blackheads and also reduced the appearance of my pores. It has been discontinued, as far as I can tell, but you might want to keep the product in mind as a reference when purchasing beauty items.
And finally, may I refer you to the wisdom of the beauty consultants in your average department store. They are always very informative and can usually suggest a quality product for whatever your needs are.
