Traveling in Europe is always a fascinating adventure, but if you’re not overly focused on the bright lights, you may find the highlights of your trip in the ambiance of smaller cities and towns. Here are four of my favorite European small towns, covering the map from Wales to Poland.
Conwy, Wales
Conwy is an old market town of about 4000 on the very northern coast of Wales. The town’s landscape is dominated by its spectacular 13th-century castle, which you can (and should) tour. If you’re in the mood for a walk, you can exit directly from the castle and cross the pedestrian-only bridge (built by Thomas Telford, Great Britain’s famous Victorian-era bridge builder) across the River Conwy. Be sure also to pay a visit to the smallest house in Britain, Quay House; it’s only about 9 feet by 6 feet and was actually inhabited for nearly 400 years. If you are in good shape for hiking, Sychnant Pass, the northernmost pass in Snowdonia National Park, is accessible from the town gate and leads to spectacular views of the local valleys and the Irish Sea. And just outside the town itself is one of my favorite bed and breakfasts anywhere, Sychnant Pass House. It has a fabulous restaurant, and the rooms are all named for the cats in T. S. Eliot’s Old Possum’s Book of Practical Cats.
Fougeres, Bretagne, France
Ah, another castle town! But the ancient fortified city of Fougeres, population about 22,000, is also filled with art galleries, winding alleys, fantastic photo opportunities, and amazingly friendly people. We sat down in a park for a few minutes and an elderly couple (who spoke no English) ended up taking us to their home across the street for tea and cookies. Serendipity will serve you well in Fougeres; just keep walking and something interesting is bound to happen. Or you can sit in a sidewalk cafe near the castle walls, eat galettes (buckwheat crepes), have a drink and watch the world go by.
Oberndorf bei Tirol, Austria
Here in the shadow of the Kitzbuheler-Horn mountain, Oberndorf bei Tirol (be careful–there is another Oberndorf in Austria!) is just enough off the beaten path to be quietly charming while close enough to Kitzbuhel to allow you to slip away for a taste of upscale mingling if that’s what you enjoy. Summer is a great time to go to Oberndorf: there’s hiking and mountain biking to keep the sports nuts busy, while the rest can visit local outdoor markets, enjoy buttery pastries, and watch the locals–often traditionally dressed–go about their business. On one of our days in Oberndorf, my husband and I found that we literally could not leave the cafe–the coffee was too good and the garden too lovely. Stay in one of the comfortable local “sport-hotels,” chalet-style hotels where there is a full range of outdoor activities available and the food is varied and plentiful. Hotel Lindner is a prime example.
Kazimierz Dolny, Poland
This quiet but artistically vibrant town of 2300 on the banks of the Vistula has maintained its Renaissance buildings, with no trace of the ugly effects that World War II and Communism had on the architecture in other parts of the country. It can a challenge to get to, unless you’ve rented a car–but it’s worth it, if only for the sight of the amazingly picturesque Rynek, or market square, with the wishing well in its center. Be sure to see it on a moonlit night if you can. From the Rynek you can easily walk up to the Hill of Three Crosses, the ruined castle, and the tower bastion that overlooks the entire town. For an unusual experience, tour the Silverware Museum here. Kazimierz Dolny is a perfect place to shop for exquisite, uniquely Polish folk art and crafts, such as pottery, wood carvings, and delicately painted eggs.
