Zoos are a proving ground for camera equipment and a training ground for the new photographer. I didn’t say digital photographer because zoos are one of the best training grounds that I know of for any new photographer, no matter whether he or she is shooting with a digital camera or a film-based camera. Zoos are great places because they provide the new photographer with a wide variety of subjects: animals, people; people watching animals; animals watching people; animals watching animals; people watching people, etc.
The zoo provides the new photographer with many challenges to overcome. Distance, cages, and glassed-in habitats all separate the photographer from his or her subjects, and are obstacles that the cameraperson has to overcome. Zoos present the photographer with moving subjects and tricky lighting–more challenges to be met. Other people passing between the cameraperson and the subject are another challenge that has to be overcome–a challenge that teaching the new photographer timing.
Before I get into the how-to, let’s spend a minute or two to talk about cameras and camera equipment. No matter whether you are shooting digital or film, you will need either a poin-and-shoot camera with a super zoom lens (a point-and-shoot with a 10 to 12X optical zoom) or an SLR with a 200- or 300-mm prime lens. A zoom lens with an upper focal length of 200- or 300- mm. will work, too, on an SLR. Personally, I prefer a Nikon zoom lens with a 55- to 200-mm focal length. I also carry a 100-mm prime macro lens in my zoo kit. No matter what lens you decide to go with, you need to equip the lens with a lens hood. A lens hood not only helps shade the lens from the sunrays; it comes in handy when you have to shoot through glass. With a lens hood in place, you can place the lens right up against the glass without worrying about scratching your expensive “glass.”
Tripods or Monopods are also an essential part of every zoo photographer’s tool kit. Personally, I prefer a monopod because they are quicker to set up and use, and they require less room to use than a tripod. Room can be a critical factor at the zoo, especially when shooting in the snake house or some other enclosed area. A good monopod, like the one I described in my Factoidz, How to Make Candle Lit Romantic Photos, can be operated one-handed, which is a big plus at the zoo.
A circular polarizing filter is also a handy gadget to have in your gadget bag. They are relatively inexpensive and can’t be beat for filtering out reflections when shooting through glass.
While I’m on the subject of gadgets, the H-RAV Professional Right Angle viewfinder is another essential gadget that every serious photographer needs to have in his or her gadget bag. Never heard of it? Not to worry, I’ll be talking about it again later in this article.
OK, here’s how to make those great zoo photos:
First, let’s take a closer look at your subject before you start clicking the shutter. What is it about this animal that really grabs my attention? Why do I want to photograph it? Is it because of its pose? Its coloration? Its movement? By asking ourselves these questions and answering them we will discover our real point of interest, which will help us compose a shot that will make those attributes visible in our photos of that animal.
The second thing it takes to make a great zoo photo is getting in close to your subject. With most of your subjects in cages or glassed-in habitats, that means zooming in on them. In many cases by zooming way in you can eliminate the bars of the cage and the animal will appear to be in its natural habitat instead of a cage at the zoo. Try to get as close as you can to the cage or other enclosure without breaking any zoo rules. Tightly cropped shots of the animal’s body or head can make for very dynamic shots.
The third thing to remember is that the eyes have it "going on". The eyes truly are the windows of the soul. Make sure the animal’s eyes are in focus and make them a prominent part of your composition, especially if you are shooting a portrait of the animal. Making the animal’s eyes the focal point of the composition increases the personal connection between the viewer and the animal.
The fourth thing that you need to do to make dynamic photos is to get down and shoot the photo at the animal’s level. Shooting from the animal’s level is a lot easier if you have your SLR equipped with the H-RAV Professional Right Angle viewfinder. If you have never heard of Hoodman, check out my product review on that handy gadget. Here’s the link http://factoidz.com/waist-level-viewfinder-for-your-dslr-reviewing-the-h-rav-professional-right-angle-viewfinder/. With the H-RAV, you can get as low as you need to go by simply kneeling down and leaning forward. Without it, you may find yourself shooting from a prone position like you’re back on the firing line in basic training. It’s worth the investment.
The fifth thing that you need to watch out for is reflections when shooting through the glass of glass-enclosed habitats. If the rules allow you to approach the glass close enough, try placing your lens shade directly against the glass. This will eliminate most, if not all, of the reflections. If you cannot approach the glass close enough to place the lens shade against the glass, screw on the circular polarizing filter and rotate the filter until the reflections disappear.
The sixth challenge is the wire-front cages and barred enclosures. You don’t have many options here. You can look for the widest opening and shoot through that or wait for the animal to move back from the enclosure front. Zoom in your subject; open your lens as far as you can for a shallow depth of field, which will throw the foreground out of focus while leaving your subject crystal clear.
Seventh, treat people and animals as moving subjects even when they are standing still. That means shooting at a fast shutter speed. Set your camera for "Shutter Priority" mode; this will allow you to control shutter speed while the camera selects the corresponding correct aperture f-stop. Because of some low- light situations, I always switch off the automatic ISO and select the custom setting, dialing in an ISO of 400.
Eighth, look for animals doing humorous things with each other or aping (forgive the pun) it up for the zoo visitors, which brings me to the quality every great photographer possesses a lot of–patience.
Ninth, plan your zoo shoot before you leave the house. Know ahead of time what animals you want to photograph that day. Without a plan you will try to see everything, photographing everything and that never works successfully. You might want to spend one day photographing the big cats, another day shooting birds, another day shooting primates, and so on.
Tenth, patience truly is a virtue. Once you know what you are going to be shooting that day, arrive early and plan to spend hours in that one location. Try to position yourself in such a way that a minimum number of people can walk between you and the animal(s) you are waiting to photograph. If you have the patience to wait, you will get the shots you came for, the shots that you will be proud to display.
Eleventh, feeding time is a time for human-interest photos. Those times of day when the animal handlers feed the animals that you are waiting to photograph is a great time to capture some action shots.
Twelfth, don’t forget the people. Shoot plenty of pictures of people as they study the animals. Catch their expressions as they react to the antics going on inside the habitats.
Thirteenth, shoot with a photo story in mind. Always go to a photo op with a purpose in mind. Always know how you intend to use the photos before you take them.
Fourteenth, and this is the most important thing of all, HAVE FUN.
