Zoos are great training grounds for photographers. Zoos test photographic equipment as well as mettle of the photographer. The zoo presents many different challenges. The distance that separates the photographer from his or her subjects combined with the enclosures that contain them can be a major problem. The subjects movements combined with tricky lighting can prove difficult for photographer and equipment to handle. The light being reflected from glass fronted enclosures or the bars that separate the photographer from his or her subject could be challenging indeed. Zoo photography is good basic training for any photographer. Before we discuss these challenges and how to overcome them, let’s take a minute or two to discuss equipment.
No two photographers will ever agree on what camera and what camera accessories are best for shooting pictures at the zoo. What equipment works best depends on the photographer’s personal style and on the type of pictures that he or she wants to make. Nevertheless, they can agree on a few things, like what lenses are needed to handle the zoo challenge. For the photographer shooting with a DSLR, a zoom lens with an upper limit of between 200 and 300-mm works well. If you are the point and shoot type of photographer and don’t have the ability to use interchangeable lenses like the DSLR photographer, you need a point and shoot camera with a 10 to 12X optical zoom. Never under any circumstances, use the extended digital zoom even if your camera has that feature. If you are shooting with a DSLR, consider taking a good quality macro lens along with you because they are great for shooting butterflies and other such subjects.
Tripods and monopods is mandatory equipment because many enclosures are very dimly lit. You will be shooting at slower speeds. Trying to shoot with a handheld cameras at less than 1/60th second is almost impossible even with image stabilization features which are becoming available on most high end digital cameras today.
A high quality gadget bag is a high priority because you need one to carry all the accessories that you will acquire as your photography skills develop. Buy a professional bag right from the start instead of a compact bag that just big enough to carry your current camera gear. Buy a big, professional bag now and you will save money in the long run because you won’t have to replace the smaller bags when you run out of storage space. Make sure that the bag that you do buy has straps for securing a tripod and/or monopod to it.
Lens shades/hoods are also mandatory accessories because you will often have to shoot into the sun and a good lens hood can make the difference between getting a so-so picture and making a great shot. Lens shades also serve another purpose; they allow you to place your lens right up against a glass enclosure without having to worry about scratching the coatings on expensive camera glass.
A circular Polarizer filter is another gadget that every photographer needs to have in his or her gadget bag.
Eleven tips for making great zoo photos
1. Think before you shoot any pictures. Ask yourself a few questions. What is it about the animal that interests me? Why do I want to photograph it? How can I photograph it that will draw other people’s interest? It’s well spent time to sit down and develop a shooting script before leaving home. Zoos offer such a wide range of subjects to photograph that one can get lost if they approach it without a battle plan. Decide what animals you are going there to shoot before you go. Are you going to shoot the big animals? Are you going to capture the birds? Are you going to shoot reptiles or monkeys? Alternatively, a combination they’re of? If possible, get a map of the zoo and plot your trip through the zoo.
2. It’s very important to get in as close as possible to your subject without breaking any zoo rules or placing yourself in danger. This is where a long, zoom lens comes in handy because you can zoom in and shoot between the bars even if you can’t physically approach the barred enclosure. A good zoom lens will allow you to eliminate most if not all of the bars.
3. The eyes have it. Focus your shits on the animal’s eyes. The eyes are the windows of the soul. We’ve all heard that said where the human eyes are concerned and it’s no less true for animals. Carefully compose your shots using the eyes as a focal point using the Rule of Thirds.
4. How low can you go? Get down to the animals level before shooting. Don’t worry about getting dirty or about looking a little silly. This is where the Hoodman Pro Right Angle Viewfinder accessory comes to your rescue. Check out my article and review of this wonderful gadget here http://factoidz.com/waist-level-viewfinder-for-your-dslr-reviewing-the-h-rav-professional-right-angle-viewfinder/. Personally, I wouldn’t be without this little gem. It’s worth every penny you pay for it and it’s worth every fraction of inch it will occupy in your gadget bag.
5. Shooting through glass presents many challenges. Carry an old rag with you to wipe the glass free of dust and dirt before attempting to shoot through it. If you’re like me you’ll forget the rag and use you shirtsleeve to clean the glass and drive you spouse nuts. Reflections are a major cause of problems when shooting through glass enclosures. One of the best ways to eliminate glare and reflections is to place your lens shade right against the glass itself. If you can’t place your lens hood right against the glass, try shooting from an angle. In many cases, this will significantly reduce glare and reflection. A circular Polarizer always works well in these situations.
6. Shooting through barred or wire screened cages is an even bigger problem. A good approach here is to zoom in tight on your subject and shoot with the lens wide open. Shooting with the lens wide open creates a very shallow depth of field, which will throw the cage bars, or screening out of focuses making them less distracting. If you have a point and shoot camera where you have no direct control over lens aperture, select the camera "portrait mode" which tricks the camera into shooting with a shallower depth of field.
7. Don’t forget to shoot people. Photograph people photographing animals. Photograph people just watching the animals. People shots add variety and interest to your zoo photographs.
8. Be on the lookout for the unusual or humorous situation. Animals, like children, do the funniest things and those situations make great pictures.
9. Animals should be treated as moving subjects and shoot using the highest shutter speed possible. If you are shooting animals in an open pit, select your cameras shutter priority mode so you have control of the shutter speed while the camera selects the appropriate aperture based on the shutter speed you selected. Unfortunately, when you are shooting through barred cages or screened in enclosures, you will need to switch to aperture priority mode so you can control lens aperture while the camera controls the shutter speed based on the aperture you select.
10. Always be prepared with a shooting script. I touched on this point earlier. This is especially important if you are really into animals because if you are and you don’t have a definite shooting script you will be shooting every animal in sight and may run out of time before you have time to get the animals you really came for.
11. Patience is a virtue, a virtue that every photographer needs to develop. Patience is essential for the photographer who is out to make great animal pictures. At the zoo, find a good shooting location and plant yourself there while you wait for the animal(s) to do something cute or interesting. Then fire at will.
Well, there you have it. Now all you need to do is plan your zoo trips and shoot plenty of pictures. Remember the beautiful thing about shooting digital is that it doesn’t cost you anymore to take 500 pictures than it does to take fifty pictures. Shoot first; weed out the good from the bad later at your leisure. Above all else, have fun.
